Choosing safe skincare

Written By Alexandra Gross

Natural beauty has been a huge trend for a while but can you trust the ingredients that companies are using, even if they label a product as natural?

“Greenwashing” is when companies use marketing to deceive customers by making claims such as “clean”, “natural”, or environmentally conscious.

There is very little regulation in the United States around how brands label themselves, and what chemicals go into our skincare. So how safe are your products? The skin is the largest organ of the body and largely responsible for our health and immune system, so it’s crucial to avoid harmful ingredients.

Here is a look at regulations across different countries:

In Canada over 500 ingredients are banned in cosmetics. Manufacturers must disclose all ingredients to Health Canada, their federal department that oversees citizens’ health, and are required to register their products with them.

In the EU (28 countries) they take a more precautionary approach. Over 1300 chemicals are banned from cosmetics that may cause harm regardless of the amount of the chemical being used. They also require pre-market safety approval and prohibit animal testing.

In the U.S. only 30 chemicals are banned from cosmetics, and registering a product with the FDA is voluntary.

In order to protect yourself, learn how to read product labels. Whether you’re buying shampoo at your grocery store or a luxury cream, take a look at the ingredients before you buy.

Here are some of the most harmful ingredients to look out for when buying products:

FRAGRANCE - one of the most common ingredients on labels

AKA: Fragrance, perfume, parfum

FUNCTION: Scent

FOUND IN: Most personal care products including sunscreen, shampoo, soap, body wash, deodorant, body lotion, makeup, facial cream, skin toner, serums, exfoliating scrubs and perfume

CONCERNS: Hidden toxic chemicals can cause cancer, reproductive and developmental toxicity, allergies. There is a loophole in regulations where “fragrance” is listed on the ingredient label can be classified as proprietary information, and legally does nothave to be disclosed. However there are some known fragrance chemicals that cause serious health issues, such as: Acetaldehyde - may cause cancer, affects kidneys and the reproductive, nervous and respiratory systems; Benzophenone - cancer, endocrine disruption and organ system toxicity, can cause several types of tumors

SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 

AKA: 1,4 - Dioxane, sodium laurel sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), PEG, and chemicals that include the clauses -xynol, -ceteareth and --oleth. 

Function: 1,4 - Dioxance is a by-product created when specific chemicals are added to combine with other chemicals to make them less harsh

Found In: Products that create suds - cleansers, shampoos, liquid soaps, bubble baths, hair relaxers, baby soaps  

Concerns: Carcinogen, birth defects. Pregnant women, infants, and teenagers are especially vulnerable.

Note: Not found in certified organic products. To avoid exposure buy products that have been certified organic

PHTHALATES

AKA: dibutyl phthalate, diethyl phthalate, dimethyl phthalate, DEP, DBP, DEHP, and ”fragrance”

FUNCTION: hold colors in nail polish, reduces brittleness in hair spray, helps fragrance linger

FOUND IN: scented lotions, color cosmetics, moisturizers, body washes, fragrance, hairspray, nail polish

CONCERN: endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and cancer. Especially avoid if pregnant or breastfeeding. 

DEA (diethanolamine), MEA (Monoethanolamine), and TEA (triethanolamine)

AKA: Cocamide DEA, Cocamide MEA, Ethanolamine (ETA), among other names.

FUNCTION: fragrance, pH adjuster, emulsifier 

FOUND IN: Soaps, shampoos, hair conditioners, hair dye, lotions, shaving creams, household cleaning products, eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows, blush, foundations, fragrances, sunscreens

CONCERNS: Cancer, organ toxicity, bioaccumulation in liver and kidneys, neurotoxicity including tremors, and birth defects including brain development in fetuses

PARABENS 

AKA: Ethylparaben, butylparaben, methylparaben, propylparaben, isobutylparaben, isopropylparaben

FUNCTION: common preservative to prevent bacteria and mold in cosmetics

FOUND IN: hair care products, cleansers, make-up, moisturizers, body washes, and shaving creams/gels

CONCERN: Carcinogen (especially breast cancer), endocrine disruptor, developmental and reproductive toxicity

NOTE: Since parabens have become a buzzword as a “bad” ingredient, many companies have replaced them with phenoxyethanol. 

PHENOXYETHANOL

AKA: Phenoxyethanol, 2-Phenoxyethanol, Euxyl K 400 (mixture of Phenoxyethanol and 1, 2-dibromo-2, 4-dicyanobutane), and PhE

FUNCTION: preservative and stabilizer. Mainly used to replace parabens. Although some claim that phenoxyethanol is safe in low doses, and safer than parabens there have been studies showing adverse affects.

FOUND IN: Almost any skin or cosmetic product - moisturizers, color cosmetics, hand lotion, body washes, soaps, lip treatments, sunscreen, deodorant, toothpaste, shaving cream, fragrance, hand sanitizer, and ultrasound gel.

CONCERN: Ranging from eczema to severe allergic reactions, suppress the nervous system. Infants especially should not be exposed to cosmetic products containing phenoxyethanol. 

BENZOPHENONE

AKA: Benzophene, oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, sulisobenzone sodium

FOUND IN: sunscreen, baby sunscreen, lip balm, nail polish, foundations, moisturizers, fragrance, shampoo, conditioner, household cleaners

FUNCTION: To protect the product from UV light

CONCERNS: cancer, endocrine disruption, developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity

NOTE: Instead choose sunscreens that are titanium dioxide non-nanoized zinc oxide

FORMALDEHYDE / FORMALDEHYDE RELEASERS

AKA: Quaternium-15, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, polyoxymethylene urea, sodium hydroxyethylglycinate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1, 3-diol (bromopol) and glyoxal

FUNCTION: Perservative

FOUND IN: soaps, body wash, bubble bath, nail polish, shampoo (even children’s), color cosmetics, eyelash glue, Brazilian Blowout brand, and other keratin/hair straightening treatments

CONCERNS: cancer, asthma, skin irritation

TOLUENE

AKA: toluene

FUNCTION: Creates a smooth finish 

FOUND IN: nail polish and treatments, hair dyes

CONCERNS: Developmental and reproductive toxicity, organ system toxicity, irritation, respiratory tract infection

BHA, BHT

AKA: butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA),  butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)

FUNCTION: preservative

FOUND IN: lip products, skincare, color cosmetics, hair products, creams, fragrances, sunscreen, deodorant/anti-perspirant

CONCERNS: carcinogen, endocrine disruption, organ-system toxicity, developmental and reproductive toxicity, irritation

TRICLOSAN

AKA: Triclosan (TSC) and triclocarban (TCC)

FUNCTION: It is a pesticide that’s added to personal care products for antimicrobial properties

FOUND IN: Tricolcarbon in bar soap. Tricolsan in liquid soap and toothpaste, such as Colgate, tooth whitening products, liquid hand soap, body wash, hand sanitizer, anti-bacterial soaps, shaving cream, color cosmetics, clothing, cutting boards, plastics

CONCERNS: endocrine disruptor, Bioaccumulation (studies have found it in 3 out of 5 human milk samples, as well as umbilical cords), Environmental Toxicity

NOTE: there is no evidence that a product with triclosan is more effective than plain soap and water 

Alexandra Gross